Improvement in dres s - makers



= MQB. ADAMS.

`Drerss-Makers Chart.

No. 215,310. Patented May13,1879.

jay. I.

D 1615 14 13 12 4 a a 0 @W0 vze MPETERS. PHOT0-L|THOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON.D C.

UNITE-D" xPara @Prion MARGARET E. ADAMS, OF SOUTH BEND, INDIANA.

IMPROVEMENT 4IN D RESS-MAKERS CHARTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Pate11tN0.`215,310, dated May 13,1879 application filed December 3, 1878.

To all whom it may concern:

of South Bend, in the county of St. Joseph and State of Indiana, haveinvented a new and useful Improvement in Pattern-Charts; and I do herebydeclare that the following is a full and exact description of the same,reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters ofreference marked thereon.

The object I have in view is to produce guide-charts for measuring anddrafting ladies and childrens dresses from a small number of actualmeasurements, which will insure a more perfect lit than is possible bythe charts heretofore used, will be simple and compact in theirconstruction, and can be easily applied; and my invention thereinconsists in the peculiar form of the two charts composing my system, andthe various scales carried by each, one chart, which I call the square,being of' rectangular exterior shape, and having scales for themeasurement of the front neck, the front and the back shoulder, the backarm-size, and the front waist, and having a curve-edged opening fordrafting the front neck; and the other chart (distinguished in thisdescription as the rule) being principally of curved forni, and carryingright and left gore-scales, an arm-size scale made from a division ofthe chest-measure, a back-neck scale, and a back-waist scale, andprovided with curved outside edges and curved inside edges (around anopening) for drafting the front and back shoulder, the back neck, the

arm-size, the darts, the back, and sides.

In the drawings, Figure l is a plan view of the square, and Fig. 2 asimilar View of the rule.

The square A is of rectangular form, with straight-ruling edges, butpreferably is not equilateral. On its upper long side is the front-waistscale a, divided into inches, and having the quarter -inches numbered(commencing six inches from the left corner) from 14 up to 42.

In the left side of the square is cut a curved slot, b, extending nearlyto the side edge of the square, its inner edge being used to draft thefront neck. Along the ruling-edge of the slot b are markingperforations,b1, which are numbered, as shown, to give the size of the front neck.Above the-'perforations b1 are other Be it known that I, MARGARET E.ADAMs,

perforations, 112.,.for determining the slope of the shoulders.

Parallel with the left side of the square, and running from points belowa number of the perforations bl, are lines which show where the edge ofthe cloth should come in cutting different sizes of front neck. Runningat right angles to these lines, parallel with the upper edge, and to theright of the perforations b2, are two other lines, which determine theposition of the square on the cloth at its upper edge fordiEerently-sloped shoulders.

To the right of the slot b is a series of perforations, c, for layingoff the front shoulder, placed one-half inch apart, the alternate onesbeing numbered from 3 to l1. These perforations are not on a straightline, as heretofore; but the line tends downwardly at iirst, and thencurves upwardly, as shown, this arrangement of the perforations beingbetter adapted for the various lengths of shoulders and producing abetter fit.

In the lower right-hand corner, and parallel with the right side edge ofthe square A, is a straight line of back-neck perforations, d, todetermine the slope of the back shoulder, placed one-half inch apart,and altern ately numbered from 3 to 6 and to the right of theseperforations and parallel therewith is a line to determine the positionof the square in regard to the edge of the cloth.

Above the back neck perforations d and ,near the center of the squareare the back* shoulder perforations c, arranged, as shown, upon theequal sides of an obtuse angle, and numbered in inches from 3 to l0.Above the perforations e are the back arm-size perfora tions f, arrangedupon the short and long sides of a right angle, and numbered in inches.This manner of placing the back-shoulder and arm-size scales in relationto each other and to the back-neck scale is intended to give a betterfit, being adapted for the forms of the various sizes of persons.

The rule B has its upper short edge straight. Its long right-side edgeis also straight, except at its lower end, g, where it is curved todraft the darts. This long straight side is provided with a back-waistscale, h, divided into inches, with the quarter-inches numbered from 14to 47. The left side of the rule is curved outwardly at its upper end,i, for forming the lmeeting-edges of the backs and sides of the basque,and is curved inwardly at its lower end, j, for drafting the front andback shoulder, the Whole side being of ogee form. The lower end of therule connecting the shoulderform j with the dart-point g is straight. Inthe ruleB is cutacurved opening, 7c, for drafting the arm-size and backneck; and on the arm-size side of this opening is marked a scale, t,which is a division of the chest measurement, while on the other side ofthe opening is the backneck scale o. Right and left gore-scales m u areplaced on the rule in the positions shown.

The operation of my square and rule Will be easily understood by thoseversed in the use of pattern-charts, and their advantages readilyappreciated by them.

What I claim as my invention is- 1. In pattern charts for measuring anddrafting dresses, the square A, of rectangular form, carrying the scalesa., bl, b2, c, d, e, and j, arranged as shown, for the purposes setforth, and provided with the curved slot b, for drafting the front neck,substantially as described.

2. In pattern charts, the rule B, having curved edges g ij, curved slot7c, and scales h, l, m, n, and o, arranged substantially as shown, forthe purposes set forth.

3. In pattern-charts, the combination of the square and rule A B, thesquare being of rectangular form, and having curved slot I) and scalesa, b1, b2, c, d, e, and f, and the rule being formed with curved edges gi j and curved slot k, and provided with scales It Z m n o,substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

This specification signed and witnessed this 21st day of October, 1878.

MARGARET E. ADAMS.

Witnesses:

O. S. WITHERILL, t J oHN BRoWNFrELD, J r.

